As a graduate student at Yale, he returned to Paris and began to explore the idea of writing his thesis on France's most emblematic food. Given the importance of bread in a country with some 50 000 bakeries, he worried that a wealth of scholarly studies already existed. He combed the French National Library and astonishingly, came up empty-handed.
"With a huge sense of relief and victory, I screamed "Bread, here I am!", he laughs.
"And for the moment, I'm still the only kid on the block."
In 2002, with Le Retour du Bon Pain Kaplan adapted a life-long academic undertaking to a general public. The book traces the profound changes that occurred in baking methods in France during the 20th century. After being forced to eat dark, tough bread during World War II, the French longed for fluffy, white-dough baguettes.
As a result, from the 1950's on, bakers began making the kind of industrialized, mass-produced bread Kaplan calls "scandalously tasteless, embarrassingly empty, dull, and flat."