The first couple of seasons, which I watched regularly. After that, I was rather apathetic. I think part of it was the raving cult status, and one of my best friends was an insane cult member, and a feeling the show was too caught up in its own importance, which is why I became disenchanted with SIX FEET UNDER as well.
I'm sorry that other people spoiled it for you. I was spared that "association" with others. I did find a group on the internet (in a film music forum) with whom I could trade observations, thoughts, etc. And I was amused to read that some rather scientific minds were intrigued by the show.
I always had the sense that Joss Whedon and his writers knew exactly what the show was and never deviated from it...and that was part of its appeal for me...that it didn't cop out and that it delivered the goods week after week.
The third season was the show's very best, IMO. All the seasons, though, were well above -- in quality and interest -- most other TV shows I've seen.
And then there were those wonderful vamps...Angel, Spike, Darla and Druscilla! And, later, Harmony!