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April 27, 2012:

SOUTH OF THE BORDER

Bruce Kimmel Photograph bk's notes

Well, dear readers, yesterday it was the deli, today we travel south of the border down Mexico way. I have always been head-over-heel in love with Mexican food since I was a wee bairn or niño. The first Mexican food I ate was at our neighborhood Mexican restaurant, Casa Cienega, located on La Cienega just south of Pico, only about five minutes from our house. It was a dark and exotic place – the smells were intoxicating and the food, which I’m supposing might not be to my liking today, is so strongly embedded in the windmills of my mind that I can both smell and taste it now, some sixty years later. I believe my meal of choice there, from the earliest I can remember, would have been either cheese or beef enchilada, which was prepared without any frou frou – just basic and excellent and simple. I remember the rice and beans and best of all, I remember the homemade warm tortillas, which were the real reason I loved that jernt so. I can’t remember whether we had the corn or flour, but I’d get them and slather them with butter, and wolf them down. We didn’t eat there all that often, but it was always a cause for celebration when we did.

The next place I remember eating Mexican food was a wonderful place called Rebozo’s (which dear reader Jane will remember, since she lived only minutes away). Rebozo’s was on Pico in West LA, located directly adjacent to the Century City Playhouse (originally called the Pico Playhouse, if memory serves). I did two shows at that theater, and after rehearsals and performances we’d always go to Rebozo’s. It was there, I believe, that I had my first beef taco – it’s another indelible memory that I can smell and taste even now. They were, in a word, the best tacos I’ve ever had. I don’t know what it was they did to them, but the flavors were amazing. The enchiladas were also wonderful, as were their tortillas. At some point, I’m sure I found Taco Bell, but I would not become a regular there until the early 1970s.

Then there was a favorite of my friend and now cousin-in-law, called El Carmen. But I didn’t care for it all that much, and I once had some hideous concoction there called chicken mole that made me want to vomit on the ground. Of course we had some chains eventually, including El Torito and Acapulco, neither of which were stellar. Then there was the famous El Cholo on Western. Surprisingly, we never really went there as kids, as far as I can remember, even though it was five minutes from my father’s restaurant. But in the 1970s I went there quite a few times and it was always wonderful – fresh tortillas, excellent enchiladas, and good tacos, but not anywhere near the tacos at Rebozo’s. The latter closed in the early 1970s, I think. On Beverly Blvd. we had El Cayote, and, for me, that was always pretty bad. All through the 1970s I was a Taco Bell regular, because for whatever reasons, I just liked their cheap, tawdry tacos, their burrito supreme and all of that stuff – and since I was, at one point, dating someone who worked there, we feasted quite insanely on Taco Bell. Also, my darling daughter loved their food. From the married days, living in the San Fernando Valley, I just never loved any of the Mexican places we tried and that included Ernie’s Taco House, a Valley landmark. When I lived in New York in 1969, the biggest culture shock was that there were no good Mexican jernts, and not even a lot of bad ones. I finally found a really good one in the mid-1990s on the east side, somewhere on Third Ave. up in the 70s or 80s.

And now, El Cholo is still there and good (although the Santa Monica branch is pretty rank), El Cayote is still there, El Carmen is still there, but I never go to any of them. The only place in LA I have been to with any frequency, and believe me the frequency has been about three times, is Lucy’s El Adobe Café, across from Paramount – but I have always found Lucy’s to be mediocre. Over the last few years, I’ve discovered El Portal in Pasadena, and they’re pretty decent. Don Cuco’s in Glendale was ordinary but pretty okay, although they recently shuttered – not sure if the Burbank branch is still open. I don’t ever go to any of the trendy or nouveau places. Three years ago, I gave Ernie’s Taco House another try, but it was pretty dreadful. I won’t walk into an Acapulco, because I got food poisoning there, and I won’t go within a country mile of an El Torito. There’s an okay fast-food place called Poquito Mas that lots of people love, but it’s not for me, I’m afraid. And that brings us to Casa Vega. Once upon a time, Casa Vega was a staid, traditional jernt for middle-aged Valley people, who were its staunchly loyal clientele. Then suddenly, a decade or so ago, it got trendy with young actors and agents and became a pick-up joint. Suddenly, the staunchly loyal regulars couldn’t even get in at certain times. As the decade went on, it got worse and worse and they began staying open later and later. The problem is, of course, it is my favorite Mexican restaurant. They have the best beef tacos in town and their cheese enchiladas and the sauce they come with cannot be beat. Their guacamole is excellent and they have a really good chili con queso dip. I have, of necessity, figured out the only times you can go. If you get there between 11:30 and 11:45 you’ll beat the sometimes hectic lunch crowd. If you get there after 2:30 and anytime before 4:30 you’ll always get in. Once it’s after work time, then it fills up quickly with the usual suspects. And once 6:00 hits, forget about it – I’ve gone in there at one in the morning and been told there’s a thirty-minute wait. For my money, it’s the best Mexican food in the San Fernando Valley and it’s almost as good as the original El Cholo.

I’d love to begin finding other traditional Mexican restaurants I’m probably not aware of – if you look at “Best Of” lists, they’re filled with nouveau, non-traditional jernts, and those simply don’t interest me at all. Going back to the very beginning, funnily I don’t ever remember Cass Cienega having chips and salsa – I would love to know when that became a staple of Mexican restaurants.

Say, don’t I have some notes to write? Here I am, waxing nostalgic about Mexican food when I should be waxing in the present. So, yesterday was a very nice day, save for waking up at five in the morning, thanks to the noisy and heavy rainfall. I did fall back asleep at six, then got up at eight. I was to the car place at nine and they did their thing – rotated tires, oil and fluid change, they removed two nails from two tires (one in each) and patched the tires (I have a suspicion where the nails came from), and they replaced the rear brakes, which only had about thirty-percent life left. It’s the first real thing I’ve had to do with this motor car and it wasn’t too expensive.

The car was ready at eleven-thirty – I’d killed time by eating some breakfast at a nearby IHop. I drove back to the Bank of Bur, where I had a meeting at the Blu and Ray authoring house that did Nudie Musical. I delivered to them the materials for the next Kritzerland Blu and Ray, which is two award-winning short films by David Wechter and Michael Nankin – they’re absolutely wonderful and charming musical comedy film, Junior High School (it is a full-out musical, with people bursting into song, just like real musicals – no numbers “in the mind” of anyone – just an old-fashioned film musical) – the songs are by David, and they’re arranged and conducted by Julius Wechter. The cast were all fresh, young faces circa 1978, including the first appearance by a teen who would go on to have some fame – Paula Abdul. It’s a charmer, it won awards, it got rave reviews, and it landed its writer/directors a major gig at Disney, doing the same chores for Midnight Madness. The film has been transferred from its 16mm negative and looks great. As a bonus, we’re also including David and Michael’s hilarious ten-minute spoof of 1950s and 1960s educational films, this called Gravity. It’s beautifully done and truly funny. In addition to the two short films, we also have several extras – a commentary track, a short Junior High School Reunion featurette, and Return to Junior High School, a short piece shot by the star of the film. We’re very excited to be putting this out.

After the meeting, I picked up one little package, and then came home. I figured out the show order for the next Kritzerland show – it was a little difficult, but we’ve had ones that were harder to figure out. I spent an hour or more dealing with all the annoying little details of this weekend’s recording of the STAGE benefit, but everything seems to be finalized now, or close to it. Then it was time for Melody’s rehearsal.

I must say, she was at the top of her game – focused, funny, in great voice, and letter perfect. I had only four little notes – two were to make stronger ending positions on the buttons of two songs. We addressed that and figured that out. Then I’d thought of two short additional funny lines – one for the beginning and one for the end – she loved them, and they’ll be in for the next rehearsal. So far, reservations are pretty good – around fifty people – I suspect we’ll end up closer to sixty, which is fine.

After that, we went out – Melody and her dad had pie, and I had a sandwich and a piece of pie, since I hadn’t eaten since ten in the morning. Then I came home, but it was already too late to watch a motion picture, so I just did work on the computer. Well, why don’t we all click on the Unseemly Button below because I must really get as much beauty sleep as possible, for I must be up early again.

Today, I shall be up early and out the door by nine-thirty. I’m going to an estate sale, the estate of Norman Mennes, the LACC teacher who recently passed away. All monies derived from the sale (outside of the commission that the estate company takes) goes to the LACC Theatre Department. I’m basically going to see what books there are, and maybe what paintings might be of interest. I’ve been told it’s all reasonably priced, and the real bargains will be his beautiful antique furniture and accouterments – none of that interests me, however. After that, I’ll hopefully pick up some packages and an important envelope. Then, depending on how it goes, I may meet the engineer down at the Saban Theatre – if he can get along without me, I’ll probably let him do it alone, just he and the sound guy who’s doing the show. I’ll eat something at some point, maybe even Casa Vega.

Tomorrow, we have a Melody rehearsal at three, then Mel and I go off to the theater. I’ll spend a little time discussing things with the engineer, make sure everything is going according to plan, then Mel and I will walk to a nearby restaurant and have dinner. The show is at seven-thirty. Then the following day is sound check and Melody’s show. The following week is huge – rehearsals, meetings, meals, stumble-through, sound check and the Kritzerland show. I have no idea if anyone is even coming. I hate that we have to go through this sort of thing every month, but it’s the nature of the beast, I’m afraid.

Well, dear readers, I must take the day, I must do the things I do, I must, for example, attend an estate sale, eat, hopefully pick up packages and an important envelope, maybe go to the theater, and relax. Today’s topic of discussion: It’s Friday – what is currently in your CD player and your DVD/video player? I’ll start – CD, some soundtracks from other labels. Blu and Ray, The Jayhawkers, which I’m finding tough going. Your turn. Also, what was the first Mexican restaurant you ever went to, what are your favorite Mexican foods, and what are the best Mexican meals you’ve ever eaten and where? Let’s have loads of lovely postings, shall we, amigos, whilst I hit the road to dreamland, where I shall dream of my favorite south of the border repasts.

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